The 2022 Powder House Chardonnay, tasted as a barrel sample, is a bit shy to begin, needing a little shaking to wake up notes of tarte au citron, lime cordial, peach preserves, and baking bread, plus hints of wet slate and sea spray. The full-bodied palate is tense and intense, featuring a crisp backbone to define the citrus and mineral layers, finishing on a lingering marzipan note. This estate vineyard, on Goldridge soils near downtown Forestville, was planted in 2013. There are basically 2 clones, Hyde and Mt Eden, on 420 A & 114 rootstocks, and the row direction is due north.

There's terrific tension to this white, with powerful, generous flavors and an elegant, wonderfully open-knit texture. Peach cobbler, candied orange peel, clementine and mango flavors are at the core, while details of clove and cinnamon honey, along with toasted brioche with a dab of salted butter, complete the picture on a juicy and creamy frame. Drink now through 2037. 1,547 cases made.