94-96 Barrel Sample. This is a beautiful Yquem, not huge or powerful, but with crispness, honey and freshness, very expressive of the year. The higher than usual proportion of Sauvignon in the blend gives it a real lift.

Tropically ripe, with dense yet creamy layers of guava, mango, lychee and papaya, all stitched with racy lemon cream and candied grapefruit peel notes. Frangipane-framed finish pumps out wave after wave of unctuous fruit. Starting to hits its second gear, and with old-school Yquem power and muscle. Drink now through 2032.

Served from an ex-chateau bottle. This replicated the performance in the Southwold blind tasting. The 2004 Chateau d'Yquem's bouquet is generous but not as complex as either the 2005 or indeed the 2006. The oak a little pronounced considering the age in bottle, but it does not leap at you shouting "I'm Yquem!" The palate has a viscous tangerine and orange peel opening with fine acidity. There is good weight in the mouth, with touches of spice and cardamom. It finishes just a little abruptly for a Yquem, a pretty note without requisite sustain. Drink now-2035. Tasted March 2014.