The 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Ama San Lorenzo is fabulous. It offers up a compelling mix of blackberry, graphite, crushed rocks, spice, lavender and black pepper, showing striking inner sweetness, gorgeous mid-palate pliancy and mid-blowing balance, all in a medium-bodied style that will be approachable with minimal cellaring. San Lorenzo remains an archetype for contemporary Chianti Classico. Production is down about 30% in 2020 because of stringent selection.

Underbrush, ripe black-skinned fruit, new leather and violet mingle with a whiff of exotic spice on this fragrant, elegantly structured red. The medium-bodied palate delivers ripe black cherry, cassis and star anise framed in polished, enveloping tannins. It shows the firm's hallmark of finesse and impeccable balance, not easy to achieve in this scorching vintage.

Made with a selection of the best estate Sangiovese (with a hint of Merlot and Malvasia Nera) from across various parcels, the Castello di Ama 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Lorenzo is chiseled and dark with a through-line of dark mineral and crushed rock. That dry mineral note forms a precise frame around dark fruit and oak spice. The wine has drying tannins and a long, polished finish.

Leafy, eucalyptus and juniper aromas and flavors lead off, with cherry and black currant close behind. Stiff tannins leave an astringent feel, but there is fruit underneath. Overall, this is very fresh and vibrant. Best from 2023 through 2030. 7,200 cases made, 600 cases imported.