The new release of Taittinger's NV Brut Prélude Grands Crus was disgorged last year after six years sur lattes and finished with a dosage of six grams per liter. Unfurling in the glass with notes of fresh peach, brioche, citrus rind and a deft touch of smoky reduction, it's full-bodied, broad and vinous, with a concentrated and muscular but elegant profile, displaying a bright girdle of acidity and a long, penetrating finish. Based on the 2012 vintage and sourced largely from Avize, Mesnil, Mailly and Verzenay, it's an excellent bottling that still flies somewhat under the radar.

A blend of equal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards. It is a rich wine, tightly textured with citrus and tangy acidity. There is a tense core of crispness, with intense fruit and a dry aftertaste. This is a fine bottling that should age further, so drink from 2018.

Firm and lightly smoky, showing a snappy acidic frame meshed with flavors of crunchy white peach, crushed almond, fleur de sel and preserved lemon. Vivacious, spiced finish. Drink now through 2022. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 5,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.