The 2019 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès is lovely, wafting from the glass with scents of peonies, red berries, exotic spices and orange rind, its élevage once again imperceptible, even at this early stage. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and sensual, it's ample and layered, with a vibrant core of fruit, melting tannins and succulent acids. If the 2018 was saturated in hue and defined by rich reserves of fruit and tannin, the 2019 is more elegant and fragile, with more ethereal aromas; it's only the wine's comparatively elevated alcohol that betrays the fact that it, too, is the product of a warm, dry, sunny vintage.

Fresh, delivering a rich hint of charred toast as a smoky base note, which underscores flavors of baked cherry and strawberry fruit, dried thyme and a tang of salinity. Long and creamy, with fine tannins showing on the finish. Drink now through 2029.