The 2004 Aalto has a far different personality than the 2003. More deeply colored, it is also significantly more expressive aromatically. It reveals pain grille, pencil lead, wild blueberry, black raspberry, and blackberry liqueur notes. Opulent on the palate, it has layer upon layer of ripe fruit, and superb length but is still an infant developmentally. Give this top-flight effort 6-8 years to further evolve and drink it through 2032.

This red has plenty of depth, with blackberry, cola, mineral and floral notes lurking under firm tannins, which frame the dense texture. Rich and intense. Drink now through 2014.