From a fine house, this bubbly has classic aromas of yeast and lime, with a hint of vanilla and coconut. In the mouth, its rich and full-bodied, with delicate citrus flavors and good acidity, but very dry. Its mostly notable for balance and harmony. An elegant, smooth wine with a good deal of complexity and finesse.

The deliciously delicate Taittinger NV Brut La Francaise is strikingly buoyant and dominated by subtle scents of yeast-tinged flowers and foliage - honeysuckle and mint immediately come to mind - that allude to its roughly one-quarter Meunier component, with a luscious matrix of lime-drenched honeydew melon and apple well-supported by discreet residual sugar leading to a sustained and refreshing finish. Hints of toasted almond and vanilla-tinged cookie dough lend a faintly confectionary cast that manages to harmonize with the dominant fruitiness and florality, while piquancy of apple and lime pit serve for counterpoint. That Taittinger's standard-bearing cuvees (outside the U.S., the cuvee in question is called "Brut Reserve") are relatively short on Pinot Noir by standards of that genre is obvious on tasting. Enjoy this distinctive success over the coming year.

A balanced Champagne, with a lively bead and a fresh mix of cherry and pear fruit, toast point and candied pink grapefruit peel notes. Modest on the minerally finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Drink now. 47,000 cases imported.

(roughly 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier; 9 g/l dosage; L3348NA09100): Light gold. Poached pear, peach, orange and honey on the fruity nose. Broad and fleshy on entry, then tighter and more tangy in the mid-palate, offering juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors with subtle ginger and toasted grain nuances. Shows a supple, round character on the finish, with the ginger and peach notes repeating. Note that this bottling is labelled as "Reserve" for every country aside from the United States. In fact, I tasted a bottle labeled as such here in New York this fall, from Lot L3348NA9200. How it wound up here, I've no idea.